The Gotthard Pass, also known as the Col du Saint-Gothard or Passo del San Gottardo, is an iconic Alpine pass sitting pretty at 2,106m above sea level. It connects Italian and German-speaking Switzerland, and the towns of Airolo and Andermatt.
While the legendary cobbled Tremola San Gottardo road that rises from the Airolo side is the more popular climb for cyclists (and featured in Cyclist issue 106), if you want to go to Italy from Switzerland, it’s up and away from Andermatt.
The route I took was from Gurtwellen, which is a 26km ride to the summit and a 54km ride to Biasca, taking in the cobbled hairpins on the descent.
Riding up the Gotthard is a decent task at the best of times, but what about when you ride up it with luggage, including a tent, a laptop and arguably too much stuff?
Why I chose the Gotthard pass
When I planned my route from London to Tunisia I decided it would have to involve one epic mountain pass, not just because I had to cross the Alps somehow, but because I wanted to ride an iconic route while laden with stuff.
Thus along came the Gotthard, enormous and intimidating but also the shortest route to take me into Italy – just the ticket.
Preparation is not key
I didn’t check the profile of the Gotthard until the day before I knew I was heading up it. Mostly because I didn’t want to psych myself out, I knew it was big, long and hard and staring at a profile wasn’t going to make it easier.
I was fully aware it was going to be a mammoth task, weighed down as I was.
On the day of the ascent, a fellow cyclist looked at my bike and simply said ‘too heavy’, so I dutifully filled up my four water bottles at the fountain in front of him, slotted them into place, and grinned.
Nothing like wanting to prove someone wrong for motivation, and I could be sure I wouldn’t go thirsty.
Cycle path saviour
Setting off from Gurtwellen, it was simply up, up, up with an impressive set of hairpins in the way before Andermatt.
I took the designated cycle path, which is the EuroVelo 5, rather than the main road as I was conscious of going slowly and not wanting to feel the pressure from the roar of the traffic. It was relentlessly steep but taking the cycle path was a blessing in this regard.
When I had a bike fit, Lee Endres told me to take my time as I climbed because of the weight of my bags, and I did just that. I kept a steady cadence, and gradually made my way up.
There is no designated cycle path after Andermatt (save for the cobbles a bit later), so bike and baggage must trundle alongside the traffic. I found the cars and motorcycles offered encouragement rather than fear though.
It’s worth noting that you should stock up on food and water in Andermatt if you need it, there is nothing else along the way until you reach the top.
Cobbled courage
There is one false summit as you swing towards the wind turbines that line the top, it’s here that you can turn off onto the cobbled road and it continues to climb up for the final 3km.
I cursed the cobbles right at the beginning of my trip in Belgium as my panniers did not like them. This time I made sure everything was locked in nice and tight to cope with the juddering.
There is minimal traffic, but I met a horse and cart up on the cobbles as well as a few men in their supercars.
Pleasingly the cobbles aren’t super steep and the landscape around offers much in the way of distraction.
After a few more twists and turns the hallowed signs marking the top reveal themselves. This cyclist was completely elated.
Descending towards Biasca
With the famous Tremola road laid out in front, the descent is a truly marvellous sight that’ll fill any cyclist with glee. The great thing about having 20kg of luggage is that you absolutely fly downhill thanks to the added weight. I put on my thermal jacket and gloves and just enjoyed the magnificent switchbacks in all their glory with a huge grin on my face, thrilled to finally be going down.
The EuroVelo 5 cycle path is well signed to Airolo and onwards to Biasca, you really can’t go wrong.
Taking on the Gotthard pass is one of the best things I have ever done, and, in my view, an absolutely epic way to get your bags from Switzerland to Italy.
For more updates, tips and tricks from Emma’s ride to Tunisia check out what she packed, her ride and how she fueled for 2,000km.
Fantastic! inspiring and with a very positive writing style